Frequently Asked Questions

What is your policy for service calls or resprays?
We offer follow-up visits called “service calls” at NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE to ensure the best results possible. Service calls are FREE WITHIN 30 DAYS of your latest application. You can request a service call by telephone, by checking the appropriate box on your return envelope or invoice stub or on our website. If any service call requests are made after 31 days of your latest application, the next treatment will be applied instead of a service call at your regular treatment cost.

How long should I wait after an application before I can water or cut the grass?
It is usually best to wait 24 hours before watering the grass following an application. Also make sure that within 7 days of the application the product has been washed into the soil by either rain or sprinkler to ensure the best results. You can cut the grass anytime after the product has been watered into the soil.

What if it rains after an application?
Rain is beneficial following a preemergent, fertilizer or lime treatment because it washes the product into the soil. However, rain will affect the results only if weeds exist at the time of the application. If this is the case, please allow enough time for results (see how long before weeds die). If at this time the weeds do not begin to shrivel up and die, please call us and we’ll gladly re-treat the weeds at no additional cost to you.

Do You Have Any Watering Tips?
» Click here for more watering info.

If you live on a hill it is best to water at two 30 minute intervals with a break in between. This will help eliminate run-off.
In dry, hot weather you may need to increase your watering once every 2-3 days.
Water extra along curbs and pavements because these areas heat up much more and dry out much faster.
Grass areas under trees will turn yellow if they don't receive extra water to compensate for the trees intake.

How long before the weeds die?
Weed control is dependent on the temperature. A general rule of thumb is the colder the evening temperature the longer it takes for weeds to die.

Cold evening temperatures (rounds 1,2,6, and 7) - 21 days for results.
Warm evening temperatures (rounds 3,4, and 5) - 7-10 days for results.

Why can’t all weeds die with one spraying and still not hurt the grass?
The answer to this question is quite simply that this chemical has yet to be created. There are two major weed groups that grow in your lawn throughout the year. Broadleaf weeds (onions, clover, henbit, dandelions…) that grow in cool temperatures. And also grassy weeds (crabgrass & dallisgrass) that grow during warm temperatures. Each weed group has specific chemicals that are used for post emergent control. These chemicals can only work on these weeds within a certain temperature range. For example, broadleaf weeds can be controlled as long as temperatures stay above 32F. The cooler the temps the slower it takes for the results – usually 2-3 weeks. On the other hand, grassy weeds require 80F days and 70F nights for control. If it does not reach this range, you will not see any results.

Are your chemicals harmful to children and pets?
All chemicals that we use are regulated by the EPA and when applied by trained professionals are not dangerous and present no hazard to children or pets.

Southern Spray's Lawn Info
For Educational Purpose Only

This page is for educational purpose only. Southern Spray Co. is not responsible for damages or death to plants due to usage of this information. It is to be used as guidelines which are different depending on what climate you may live in so results will vary from region to region. Remember, the best way to protect your investment is to seek professional advice for your lawn.

Beautiful Lawns Require WORK!!!

What is Aeration?
Power core aeration is one of the most important cultural practices available for your lawn. Aeration helps control thatch and soil compaction. This occurs by creating growth pockets for new roots and opens the way for water and fertilizer to get into the root zone of your lawn.

How Does Aeration Work?
Aeration removes thousands of small cores of soil 1" to 2 " in length from your lawn. These cores "melt" back into the lawn after a few rainfalls, mixing with what ever thatch exists on your lawn. The holes created by aeration catch fertilizer and water. Turf roots naturally grow toward these growth pockets and thicken in the process. Aeration holes also relieve pressure from compacted soils, letting oxygen and water move more freely into the root zone.

What are the results?
Performed annually, aeration means better response from the water and fertilizer that are applied to the lawn. It means fewer problems with insects and fungus disease. All of which translate into a greener, thicker lawn to enjoy all season long.

Why Should I Worry About Grubs?
There are several types of white grubs that feed on the roots of lawn grass. All of them can cause severe damage if left untreated.

Grubs live and feed in the soil. It's easy to miss them as they cut the roots out from under your lawn until brown patches begin to appear and the grubs are finally discovered.

How Can I tell if I have Grubs?
Pull back the turf if you suspect grubs. If the lawn pulls up easily (like new sod) you may find C-shaped white grubs in the top inch or so of your soil.

What are grubs?
Grubs are the larval (or worm) state of many types of beetles. The beetles lay their eggs in your lawn, and the newly hatched worms work their way through the thatch and into the soil. Most beetles lay their eggs mid to late summer, and the young grubs do their greatest damage during the fall months.

As the weather cools, most grubs burrow into the soil for the winter, and return to the surface to feed again as the soil warms in the spring. After this spring feeding, the grubs pupate into adult beetles and begin the cycle again.

Won't Grubs Just Die In The Winter?
Grubs don't disappear on their own. They should be treated before damage begins to appear, or as soon as they are discovered.

Why Bother with Weed Control?
Even the most beautiful lawn is likely to have weeds appear at some point. Keeping a lawn "weed free" takes more than just a couple of treatments each year. Thin or bare patches of soil quickly fill up with broadleaf and grassy weeds of all sorts. Nature finds ways to make sure something starts growing in any lawn that has become too thin. This is why a healthy stand of grass is the very best weed prevention there is.

What Types of Weeds Are Most Prominent?
There are two major weed groups that grow in your lawn throughout the year. Broadleaf (onions, clovers, herbit, dandelions …) that grow in cool temperatures. And also grassy weeds (crabgrass and dallisgrass) that grow during warmer temperatures. Each weed group has specific chemicals that are used for post emergent control. These chemicals can only work on these weeds within a certain temperature range. For example, broadleaf weeds can be controlled as long as temperatures stay above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. The colder the temperatures, the slower the results, usually 2-3 weeks. On the other hand, grassy weeds require 80 degree days and 70 degree nights for control. If it does not reach this range, you will see no results at all.

What Can I do to Help Prevent Weeds?

Mow higher - This cuts off the light and warmth weeds need and conserves moisture.
Water - Keep your good grass thick and you will see a lot fewer weeds.
Seed or Sod - Replace bare areas (especially shade areas) so weeds have more competion

Working together, we can keep your lawn beautiful, healthy and keep most of the weeds out too.

What Are The Benefits of Lime?
Lime "sweetens" your soil. In areas where soil is naturally "sour" (or acid), this is extremely important to growing healthy turf. Lime helps improve lawn color and density, helps control thatch, and increases root development.

A lime application helps keep the chemistry of your soil in balance so that you can have and enjoy a thicker, greener, healthier lawn.

Lime affects color, thatch, and root development When your soil pH is too low (acid) it needs lime to bring it back into balance. Soil that is too acid causes "fertilizer lock-up." This means that fertilizer and important micro-nutrients become locked up in the soil and unavailable to grass plants.

The results of this lock-up are that the grass becomes thin and yellow, thatch may build up faster, and root growth slows down.

We suggest annual liming for acid soils. It helps everything else we do work even better. That's what makes lime such a great lawn value for you.

How Important is Mowing?
A well groomed lawn - one that is mowed at the right height when it is needed - is better able to resist insects, disease, and weeds. Mow when your grass is 1/3 to 1/2 times the recommended height. For example, if the lawns regular height is 2 inches, cut it when it is 3 inches high.

What Are Suggested Mowing Heights?

Bermuda (Hybrid): ½ to 1 ½ inches
Bermuda (Common): 1 ½ to 3 inches
Fine Fescue: 1 to 2 ½ inches
Tall Fescue: 3 to 4 inches

Do You Have Any Tips To Help Me Mow Better?

Sharpen mower blades frequently; dull mower blades rip grass apart instead of cutting and will take away from green color.
Never cut more than half of the grass blade at a mowing
If the grass is too high, reduce it’s height a little at a time.
Remove clippings when they sit on top of the grass.
Mow when the grass is completely dry.
1st Mowing- It is best to cut your lawn as low as possible without hitting the soil level and also bag it. This removes excess grass clippings that have collected during the winter months and allows more air, water, and nutrients to get into the root system quicker.
Last Cutting- Either cut your lawn at it’s regular height or allow it to grow a little higher for the last mowing. This provides a “security blanket” to help insulate the roots going into the winter months.
Mulching vs. Bagging- Mulching allows the grass to utilize it’s natural make-up by returning nutrients back into the soil. Bagging should only be done to keep excess grass clippings from smothering the turf.

What's The Best Way To Prepare For A New Lawn?
The best time for you to plant a new lawn is just before a period of rapid growth for the type of grass you are planting. Kill old lawns or weeds with Round Up or Ortho Kleenup Systemic weed and grass killer. Allow chemical to set up 10-14 days. Rototill, spade, or rake to loosen the dead vegetation then remove. Rake out any clods or rocks from the top 2 inches of soil. Level the ground, then add micro nutrients such as lime or a starter fertilizer such as 13-13-13. You are now ready to begin.

How Do I Lay Sod?
Lay sod as soon as possible after it is cut. Fit the edges tightly together. The sod should not be overlapping on top of other pieces. Water the sod then roll with a garden roller to level it out. Keep the sod moist by lightly watering twice a day for about two weeks. Test by tugging gently at a corner. When you feel resistance, it is established. Don't mow or apply any herbicides until sod is established.

Is Pruning Necessary?
Thinning, cutting, heading, shearing. While the terms may sound a bit intimidating, pruning is a regular, important part of keeping your plants healthy and looking their best. Pruning removes diseased and damaged plant parts, helps air circulate and sun light get in, and stops structural problems in future plant growth.

When Should I Prune?
Flowering plants, in particular, produce more flowers and fruit when pruned at the right time. As a general rule, flowering plants that bloom in early spring on old wood (or growth from previous seasons) should be pruned a week or two after flowers drop. Those that bloom in late summer on stem growth from the current growing season should not be pruned until they are dormant.

A cut in the right direction now can mean better plant performance and appearance. For the best results, combine pruning with healthy fertilization. Then sit back and watch how nature appreciates the help you give.

What Is Spring Dead Spot?
This is a fungus that occurs in Bermuda lawns in the fall while the grass is going into dormancy. The effects do not become visible until the following spring when you begin seeing well-defined round dead spots in your lawn. These spots are indented into the ground and look like moon craters. Usually 2-3 or more lawns in the vicinity will also show signs of spring dead spot. Unfortunately, the chances are excellent that this will be a reoccurring problem in the future.

How Do I Control Spring Dead Spot?
There is a product available called Rubigan for control of spring dead spot but it has its drawbacks:

Must be applied to grass in the fall prior to dormancy
Very expensive - you could buy a couple pallets of sod for the cost of a Rubigan treatment, and most importantly
No guarantees that new or additional spots will not reappear in the spring.

The best way to control spring dead spot is by raking dead grass with a steel rake. Then fill in bare areas with sand or soil and allow grass to fill in naturally. You can also replace with new sod.

What Is Thatch?
Thatch is the natural accumulation of dead grass plant parts (stems, crowns, etc.) that form a mat above the soil surfaces. Contrary to popular belief, it is not the result of grass clippings which are left on the lawn.

If there is only a thin layer of thatch, it creates no problem. If the layer is allowed to reach 1" thick or more however, it can be big trouble for the lawn.

How Can Thick Thatch Become A Problem?
It provides a perfect breeding ground for insects and disease. Also excessive thatch blocks the light source your grass needs to grow healthy and thick and at the same time it decreases the flow of water, fertilizer, and air to grass roots. More competition for the grass.

How Can I De-Thatch?
Sometimes a method of mechanical dethatching is needed. Vertical mowers or verticutters are often used to reduce thatch. These are available from rental agencies or you can hire a contractor to do the job for you. The best time to dethatch is late spring for bermuda and zoysia grasses or early fall for fescue grasses.

Why Should I Water?
Keeping your lawn thick, green, and healthy means doing several things right. One of the most important is making sure there's enough moisture to maintain growth.

Nature's rainfall schedule is not dependable. Some additional watering is almost always necessary, at least during the hotter and dryer parts of the year to avoid water stress.

What Happens If My Lawn Doesn't Get Enough Water?
Lawns turn brown, thin out, and run into more disease and insect problems when under water stress.. A thin, water-stressed lawn also creates room for weeds to invade. So whether you use underground or portable sprinklers, there are a few basic guidelines to follow to avoid these problems and maintain good lawn health.

When Is The Best Time To Water?
The best time to water your lawn is between 5am and 10am. There are two main reason for this:

When watering in the early morning, you are making sure your water goes down to the roots instead of being lost to evaporation
Watering in the middle or last of the day causes your lawn to be scorched or have tip burn.

If you cannot water between 5 and 10am, your next best option is to water between 6 and 8pm. However, when evening temperatures drop and humidity rises, water in the soil tends to cause troublesome turf disease such as dollar spot and helminthosporium leaf spot.

How Do I Know If My Lawn is Getting Enough Water?
Manual sprinklers and irrigation systems put out different amounts of water. How much water gets to the lawn is affected by the timer and the size (or diameter) of the hose you use, or the timer and size of sprinkler heads on an irrigation system. Most lawns need about an inch of water per week (more is needed in sandy soils). Set up your sprinkler and use pie pans or empty cans to check how much water is collected after 1 hour. If 1/3 of an inch is collected then water 3 times per week. Adjust watering length and days watered accordingly.

How Often and How Long Should I Water?
We recommend if you are manually watering your lawn, do it approximately once every 2-3 days for about 1 hour in each location. This is better than frequent but brief watering because it allows the root zone to air out. In return fertilizer and other nutrients are better utilized which creates a greener, healthier turf and helps deter possible root rot fungus. When using an irrigation system adjust watering times and the amount in accordance to the 1" per week rule. Remember to make adjustments when it rains.

For Educational Purpose Only

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